Lots of watches glow in the dark, but not for long.
The
most common technique is to use phosphorescent paint — it’s activated
when exposed to light, though the glow begins to fade moments after the
coated elements are removed from the light source. There’s also Indiglo,
Timex’s patented, push-to-light system which requires you to push a
button to activate a battery-powered light source. Both work alright,
but neither are ideal.
I’ve found a promising alternative in an illumination technology from Swiss manufacturer Luminox,
which claims to make the markings on its watches always visible, 24/7,
with no activating light or battery needed. This is cool, a watch that
glows all the time.
The
watch I tested, the Valjoux Field Chronograph, lights up using micro
gas lights — borosilicate glass capsules, chosen for their resistance to
breakage, are filled with radioactive tritium gas. As the tritium
decays, it releases electrons, lighting up the hands and hour markers
(all without harming the human wearing it). Even the bezel becomes
visible in darkness.
Watches
using this tritium illumination technology are very popular with
military and law enforcement — people who need to be able to read their
watches in all conditions, from under water to pitch-black darkness.
Luminox is a trusted supplier in these circles, and the military
influence is immediately obvious in the Valjoux Field Chronograph’s
butch design. With its buckram-like thick buffalo leather wristband and
its 48 mm, black steel case that weighs over a quarter of a pound, this
handsome watch exudes a sense of adventure-seeking masculinity. While
I’m sure the name “Valjoux” warms the hearts of those in the Luminox
marketing department, a more descriptive name might simply be “Balls.”
The
Valjoux Field Chrono has a screw-in crown and is water-resistant to 100
meters. The textured, white-on-black dial centers make the hour and
minute hands, as well as the pair of stop-watch chronograph insets,
sharp and very readable. The three-hand chronograph is activated with a
firm press of two buttons that sandwich the main crown.
While
Luminox’s battery-operated quartz watches are well-known, the Valjoux
Field Chronograph is an example of the company’s recent expansion into
automatic mechanical movements. Every swing of your arm energizes the
Swiss-made Valjoux 7750 movement by spinning its engine-turned rotor.
There’s never a need for a battery. Of course, this means that when the
watch its off your wrist, and after its 36-hour reserve power has
expired, you’ll need to reset the time. As with all automatic watches,
you also need to kick-start the movement with 10 to 20 clockwise twists.
It’s a minor inconvenience, and one you’ll never encounter if you wear
it every day (or close to every day). The back of the watch is dominated
by a sapphire crystal, which provides a see-through exhibition case so
you can study the automatic mechanism.
The
manual that comes with the watch advises: “A mechanical watch is
somewhat less accurate than a quartz watch.” As far as I can tell, this
is just for liability reasons. I encountered no perceptible loss or gain
in a week-long test of the Valjoux Field Chronograph. In fact, my only
pet peeve has nothing to do with time-keeping — it was the
less-than-comfortable fit of the bulky wristband. But I balanced that
with the thrill of taking people into an unlit closet to see their “Oh
wow” reactions by the light of the brightly glowing dials.
WIRED Tritium
illumination keeps the hands and hour markers visible even in total
darkness. The chronograph watch design is handsome. Mechanical
auto-winding movement is accurate and has a 36-hour reserve. No
batteries required, ever.
TIRED Tritium
has a half-life of 12.5 years, so the watch will lose half its
brightness by the end of 2024. Second hand doesn’t light up, so chrono
is tough to see in the dark. Ultra-thick buffalo leather strap and steel
buckle are too bulky for most wrists. Though watch nerds may find
$2,300 a fair price, that’s as high as the Swiss Alps for everyone else.
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